Charleston | Westward Bound

Fifth Stop: CHARLESTON

Now, lets talk about my love of Historic Preservation!
Charleston is full of historic buildings, cobblestone streets, and well maintained plantation homes. That being said, it was also quite obvious that this city has many low-income and poverty stricken individuals. Driving in this was easy to spot right away, however, walking around took a little more time... I digress.

I began my day in Charleston with lunch at Husk (which was recommended by my friend from Columbia, SC) where I ordered the gulf classic 'shrimp-n'-grits + a local beer. This restaurant is mid-priced and celebrates heirloom ingredients that are locally sourced. My not being a grits expert, I found this dish to be well compiled and generous on the quantity + quality of the shrimp, well balanced with the chorizo + veggies. I only ate half of my lunch, and took the other half with me for dinner later.

After lunch I decided to stroll around town, made my way to the Battery, waterfront, old town, city hall, and countless random stores; before making my way to Black Tap Coffee, for a shortbread cookie and a soy gibraltar (its the same as a cortado). The coffee was good, which seems to be a trend throughout my trip, and the cookie was the perfect size for an afternoon treat. Black Tap was located across the street from public housing structures; I find places like this to be quite intriguing. Artisan coffee across the street from people who wouldn't be able to enjoy it, tis the modern movement I suppose. Anyhow, it was noteworthy to see how this city has developed and how close the proximity is between the high-income plantation like homes are to the low-income public housing units.

My last walkable destination was the Historic King Street Shopping destination, cluttered with high-end products and services that I for one could never afford. This street was equivalent to Fifth Avenue in New York City, and quite sterile in my opinion. Eventually I made my way back to the car, passing the horse-drawn carriage tours, and some fun and funky Charleston accessory stores.

As a whole Charleston is a very walkable city! I was able to see the majority of downtown in a matter of 4 hours, and I don't feel like I missed out on any sites. However, the food.... I am sad to say I was not able to consume more food products while I was traveling through. I guess I'll just have to make that into another trip.

Previous Posts:
Nelli is Moving
Baltimore
Virginia
Asheville
Greenville
Columbia

Asheville, NC | Westward Bound

Third Stop: ASHEVILLE

As beautiful as Virginia was, my overnight stay was odd to say the least which meant I was happy to awake in the morning and make my way onto Asheville, North Carolina!
The drive was about 3 hours and beautiful was an understatement. The countryside in both Virginia and North Carolina was breathtaking. With 70's folk music on the radio and a bag of strawberry liquorish in hand I arrived in Asheville around 13:00, just in time for a late lunch. First stop was 12 Bones Smokehouse, I had read so much about this BBQ joint and I could not wait to try it! I ordered a side of pulled pork (which is a MUST in North Carolina), a side of sliced brisket, and a side of corn pudding. First off I was super excited that they offer sides of meat as there was no way I could have finished a whole plate on my own. Second off everything was amazing, and Thirdly I'm still not quite sure what the hell-o corn pudding is but boy is it tasty! After filling up on meat and corn I took myself on a little walk around the River Arts District (RAD) which was conveniently located right next to the BBQ joint. The little art studios were super cute and very creative. This area used to be factories and has since been converted into artists studios and they are almost all open to the public. I would definitely recommend a stroll down the Arts district if you're in town. I (of course) love all the brick buildings. After my stroll it was time for (my now routine) afternoon coffee, and the lucky joint up on the chopping block today was Waking Life Espresso. This place was a ways away from the RAD, but it was nice to see another area. It was cute, an old house turned into a coffee shop and they had surprisingly good vegan baked goods (My meat eating South Carolina buddy would soon validate this claim).
Unfortunately, all these little trips did not leave me much time to explore Asheville on foot, or to take many photos, but I took myself on a little driving tour before I headed to Greenville, SC for dinner with my New York Pal. Ashevilles historic downtown was adorable and filled with what I can best describe as 'modern hippies.'
Stay tuned for the next few cities in South Carolina....

Past Posts:
Nelli is Moving
Baltimore
Virginia

Pulled Pork, Sliced Brisket, Corn Puddin'

Kaffee in Berlin

Berlin Coffee, like food, is up to par with NYC quality and prices. Coffee is a "hip" commodity and all the coffee shops have gourmet pastries. This meant I had to try something at each! Also, if you're vegan or dairy free Berlin has soy offerings for you. I'm not, but I like to switch back and forth between milk and soy. Coffee was good, and pastries were better!

The Barn | Flat White + Scone + Flapjack | Mitte

As I conducted my coffee research The Barn continuously popped up, and luckily it was located only a few blocks from my hostel. Keeping with my love of Flat Whites I snagged one here. I also grabbed a flapjack for breakfast which is equivalent to a hommade granola bar beware these are filling! My friend grabbed a raisin scone which was the perfect consistency! 

Espresso Ambulanz | Soy Macchiato | Mitte

This little place has a nice ambiance and the barista was very sweet. With your drink every patron gets a little treat. Mine was a little brownie.

Zeit Fur Brot | Soy Cortado + Laugencroissant | Mitte

I'd been reading about laugencroissants for weeks and couldn't wait to try one! Zeit Fur Brot was "the bakery" to have them at, so when I Rome.... This treat was delicious!!!!!! 1/2 croissant 1/2 pretzel I was in complete heaven with 2 of my favorite baked goods in one! My friend got a chocolate pastry which was equally as delicious. The coffee here was not my preferred, but then again they are a bakery and known for their baked goods which (again) are fantastic!

Koffain | Soy Gaelo | Kreuzberg

This drink is similar to a Cortado only in a taller glass. I had to try it as I'd never heard of it before. 

Five Elephants | Soy Cortado + Cheesecake | Kreuzberg

OMG one of the best cheesecakes I have ever had! Coffee was very good as well, but it's hard to focus on coffee with cheesecake this good!

In and outdoor seating and a cute little place. The owner was sweet and even made a special drink for my pal.

Cafe a | Soy Cappuccino + Blueberry Scone | Mitte

The cappuccino and pastry here were both good quality, however, nothing that  stands out in my mind. They do have other offerings including fresh fruits.

Einstein Coffee | Cortado | Everywhere - German Starbucks

This coffee did not warrant a photo, coffee was good for an "on the run" cup of joe, similar to a Starbucks. Avoid it if you can, but if you need your "fix" they will do the job.

Zagreb Coffee Scene

Before I went to Zagreb I had done a bunch of research on food, wine, coffee like I do in almost every city I go to, however, this time I was completely shocked at how popular and great coffee was! Zagreb has a huge coffee scene and almost everywhere I went had fantastic coffee. Unless you're at Starbucks you really cannot go wrong here and they have something for everyone. Not to mention the coffee is dirt cheap! On average a cappuccino is 10 kunas = $1.50.

A tip I have for anyone traveling to Zagreb is to order a "Caffe with Milk" not a cappuccino or latte. This drink is what all the locals have and is equivalent to a flat white. Don't make the mistake and think it's American coffee with milk. 

Additionally, remember that Croats smoke indoors and coffee shops are full of smokers so if you're not up for the fumes opt for outdoor seating.

Enjoy!

-Nelli

Museum of Broken Relationship | Macchiato

This was my very first coffee in Croatia and as such it holds a special place on my heart. Outdoor seating on a quiet square. It's in the upper town so you have a view of the city, and if you're there at noon you will hear the cannon that goes off every day. So don't be frightened when it does.

Compliments of Italy EU Day | Coffee with Milk | Italy Booth

When I left the Museum coffee shop I wandered around the upper town when I heard loud music and people; naturally I followed the sounds and stumbled upon the EU Day festival. In a square each country had a booth and they were all giving out goodies. German - Beer, Switzerland - Chocolate, Italy Cappuccinos. And while I didn't need another coffee I couldn't pass up a free cappuccino!

Kavanica | Caffe with Milk

The girls at the hostel informed me that "Caffe with Milk" is what all the locals drink. So I switched from my macchiatos and cappuccinos to this, and boy am I happy I did! Creamy, frothy, warm.... I'm foaming at the mouth just reminiscing. As I previously mentioned these little guys are equivalent to a "flat white" or a "small latte" but once you have one you won't go back! Kavanica has booth indoor and outdoor seating, today I got stuck outside as the indoor was full; I ended up here at "coffee hour" aka mid afternoon.

Oliver Twist Pub | Caffe with Milk

Not someone I would have chosen for coffee but my friend and I were looking for somewhere to sit and relax and she'd never been here and the glass enclosure sold me. Coffee was good, they had TVs and beers for the guys, and ashtrays for my lady friend. 

Booksa | Cappuccino

Booksa was a nice place to hang out and a different vibe than the other coffee shops around. This place is a book club so you're relaxing on couches in a library setting. Upon arrival the staff might give you flack about joining the club as the coffee and amenities are intended for members. But I told her I was from the USA and she said "it's ok" but if you're a local I can imagine this being an issue. If you're a non-smoker this indoor joint doesn't allow smoking, and they have nice extras like honey, cinnamon, and coco powder to sprinkle on top of your liquid treat. They're self service so be sure to pick up after yourself.

Eli's Caffe  | Maroccino (Macchiato with Chocolate)

Eli's is the only coffee shop in town that roasts it's own beans. I learned this through an hour long conversation we had with the owner. He's a champion roaster and espresso artist. Upon entering you'll notice the decor of this place isn't like any other in Zagreb, it feels posh as if you were on the Upper East Side of Manhattan stopping by on your 5th Ave shopping spree. The drinks are 1-2 kunas more than the other places but the quality is superb, and they have their own custom made plates, cups, and glasses. The owner is friendly if you get the pleasure to meet him. We opted for a drink I had never heard of a Maroccino, typically when traveling I go for something I've never heard of before. This little treat was delicious! Espresso, milk, chocolate how can you go wrong with that?!

Velvet | Caffe with Milk

Down a long cute alleyway you will find this trendy looking coffee shop. They have gourmet cakes and some croissants, also with every drink you get a little cookie. A few kuna's more than the other places but the space is cute.

Golf | Coffee with Milk

This joint was based on the recommendation of a local. Two stories with a skylight and located in between buildings so it's not easy to find. Coffee was up to par with the rest of the city. 

Secret Garden

Coffee pop up shop at Lockwood in Astoria with Native Roasters Coffee weekends this June.

Here are a few shots from my visit the past 2 weekends.